Delhi NCR is no stranger to restaurant pop-ups, but every now and then, one comes along that genuinely feels special. So when I heard that Jhol – the Michelin Guide-recognised coastal Indian restaurant from Bangkok – was bringing its celebrated cuisine to Diya at The Leela Ambience Gurugram for a limited-time showcase, I was curious to see whether it would live up to its reputation. Led by Chef Shreesha Rao, Jhol has earned a loyal following for its contemporary interpretation of coastal Indian cuisine, drawing inspiration from the country’s vast shoreline stretching across multiple states and regions. Having now experienced the specially curated seven-course tasting menu myself, I can safely say that the hype is justified.
The evening began with a series of appetisers that immediately set the tone. The Chicken Liver Achu Murukku, served with dry mango chutney, was one of the most interesting bites of the night. The delicate, crisp murukku carried the earthy richness of chicken liver beautifully, while the dry mango chutney added a sweet-tangy contrast that tied everything together.
Photo: Nikita Nikhil
Alongside it came the Kolkata Dim’er Devil with Kasundi and caviar. Familiar yet elevated, it delivered all the comforting flavours of the beloved Bengali snack while adding layers of texture and indulgence through thoughtful garnishes.
The Berhampur Fried Chicken followed next. Inspired by Odisha’s coastal flavours, the crispy fried chicken was served with a green chutney in place of Jhol’s signature hot sauce. A squeeze of lemon brought everything alive, making for a simple yet deeply satisfying course that reminded me why good fried chicken never goes out of style.
Photo: Nikita Nikhil
One of my favourite dishes of the evening was the Surati Anda Ghotala. Garnished with shredded cheese, shaved truffle, and served alongside chilli cheese toast, it was pure comfort food. Rich, creamy, and packed with flavour, it felt familiar from the very first bite. The chilli cheese toast added texture and complemented the luxurious egg preparation beautifully.
And then came the dish that completely stole the show.
The Ghee Roast Crab arrived inside an actual crab shell, housing a Kanchipuram-style idli stuffed with crab meat and topped with ghee. Served alongside coconut chutney, it was unlike anything I had eaten before. Digging into the soft idli to uncover the spicy crab filling felt almost theatrical. Since idli itself carries a fairly neutral flavour profile, it worked as the perfect vehicle for the rich, spicy crab mixture. The presentation was spectacular, but thankfully the flavours matched the visual drama. It was easily one of the most memorable dishes I’ve had this year.
Photo: Nikita Nikhil
The mains continued the coastal journey. The Alleppey Fish Curry paired with matta red rice was comforting and soulful, delivering exactly the kind of flavours that make coastal Indian cuisine so beloved. Equally impressive was the Malabar Lamb Shank served with kallappam and beans poriyal. The slow-cooked lamb was tender and deeply flavourful, while the kallappam—a Kerala specialty made using toddy—added a unique dimension to the dish. It was my first time trying kallappam, and I found myself going back for more.
Dessert arrived in the form of a tender coconut payasam accompanied by a sesame snap and mango sorbet. Rich, creamy, and deeply comforting, the payasam was everything a good Indian dessert should be. The crunch of the sesame snap and the freshness of the mango sorbet brought balance to the sweetness, creating a fitting finale to the meal.
Photo: Nikita Nikhil
By the end of the evening, I finally understood why Jhol continues to be recognised by the Michelin Guide year after year. Beyond the technical finesse and beautiful presentations, what stood out most was the storytelling. Every course felt rooted in a place, a memory, or a tradition.
Chef Shreesha Rao and his team managed to capture the diversity of India’s coastline while presenting it through a contemporary lens. The result was a meal that felt thoughtful, exciting, and deeply satisfying. If this pop-up is any indication of what awaits diners at Jhol in Bangkok, I can see exactly why the restaurant enjoys the reputation it does.
