A Journey Through Chettinad: Where Culinary Heritage Meets Modern Flavour

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Last Updated:July 14, 2025, 19:50 IST

A three-day retreat in Karaikudi brings alive the bold flavours, rich history, cultural rituals of Chettinad cuisine through progressive dining, local trails, immersive experiences

A traditional Chettinad chicken curry

In the lush landscape of Tamil Nadu’s Sivaganga district, where sun-drenched courtyards open into pillared mansions and spice-scented breezes drift through ancestral kitchens, the story of Chettinad cuisine is quietly, powerfully told. This July, that story takes centre stage with Suvai: a three-day immersive culinary retreat set against the grandeur of The Lotus Palace Chettinad in Karaikudi.

Taking place from July 18–20, Suvai isn’t just a food event, it’s a curated sensory journey through one of India’s most distinctive regional cuisines. A collaboration between some of Chettinad’s most iconic heritage properties including The Bangala, Visalam, and Chidambara Vilas – this initiative brings together chefs, historians, local artisans, and curious gourmands to explore the soul of a cuisine shaped by travel, trade, and time.

At the heart of this celebration is Chef Ashutosh Nerlekar, Director of Food Production at The Park Chennai and one of the driving minds behind the progressive culinary experience Suvai promises.

A Cuisine of Depth, Heat, and Heritage

Ask Chef Nerlekar what defines Chettinad cuisine, and he answers without hesitation, “It’s the strong character, the balance of flavour, aroma, and history.” Chettinad cuisine, he explains, isn’t just about fiery heat or famous spice blends. It’s a nuanced alchemy built on ingredients like kalpasi (black stone flower), Marathi moggu, sun-dried chillies, and the unmistakable sweetness of star anise, a legacy of the Chettiar community’s seafaring ties with Southeast Asia.

These influences, brought home over generations, found their way into everyday dishes – enriching the cuisine with techniques, ingredients, and stories that remain vibrant even today. “The final flavours strike a unique balance between heat, tanginess, and boldness. It’s this layered, historic complexity that makes Chettinad food so compelling,” he says.

Modern Palates, Ancient Roots

But how do you preserve a cuisine so steeped in tradition while appealing to modern tastes? For Chef Nerlekar, the answer lies in progressive storytelling through food.

“The region’s culinary lineage is so strong that it demands careful curation. When we innovate, we don’t reinvent, we reinterpret. The flavours remain rooted in authenticity, even if the form is elevated or contemporary,” he explains.

At Suvai, this philosophy comes alive on opening night with a seven-course progressive Chettinad dinner hosted at The Lotus Palace — the first of its kind for the region. Think classic flavours reimagined with finesse, ingredients like black tamarind or nattu kozhi (country chicken) presented in ways that honour their cultural context while exciting modern diners.

Beyond this, the three-day retreat unfolds like a moving feast from a grand wedding-style banana leaf meal at The Bangala to a Burmese-inspired lunch at Visalam (a nod to Chettinad’s migratory past), tiffin-style dinners at Chidambara Vilas, and teatime delicacies served at Chettinadu Mansion.

More Than Meals: A 360° Cultural Experience

What makes Suvai special isn’t just its menus — it’s the immersive lens through which guests will view the region. “We wanted Suvai to go beyond the plate — to build awareness of a lifestyle, not just a cuisine,” shares Chef Nerlekar.

Participants will explore local eateries, visit the famed 80-year-old nannari sherbet factory, wander through Santhai, the lively Sunday market, and shop for traditional cookware and antiques. There are also guided heritage walks to Chettinad’s iconic palatial homes — where egg plastering, Burma teak, and Athangudi tiles offer a stunning visual history lesson.

And in between? Intimate conversations with culinary historians, curated breakfast spreads featuring ookarai and Rangoon puttu, and thoughtfully placed in-room treats at THE Lotus Palace — a sensory welcome into the Chettinad way of life.

Suvai as Cultural Preservation

As Chef Nerlekar puts it, “Chettinad is a hidden gem — and its culinary wisdom often goes unnoticed beyond the region.” Through Suvai, the team hopes to change that, not by turning the cuisine into a trend, but by deepening its recognition and respect.

“There’s a science behind how and when Chettinad meals are eaten,” he says. “Heavier rice meals during the day, lighter tiffin items like idiappam or dosai at night — it’s rooted in lifestyle, climate, and intuition.” Even the traditional cooking methods — sun drying, hand pounding, slow roasting — reflect sustainable practices and deep regional knowledge.

By reviving these practices in an engaging format, Suvai becomes more than an event. It becomes a platform of preservation — shining a light on regional Indian cuisine at a time when the country’s food landscape is opening up to nuance and narrative.

A New Dawn for Culinary Tourism in South India

With its confluence of immersive storytelling, heirloom recipes, heritage hospitality, and thoughtful innovation, Suvai positions Karaikudi as an emerging destination for culinary tourism in India. More importantly, it reclaims space for regional traditions — not in museums, but in moments of flavour, warmth, and discovery.

As the monsoon rain sweeps over Chettinad’s terracotta roofs this July, Suvai invites guests to savour a legacy. To eat with curiosity. And to leave not just nourished but transformed.

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Swati Chaturvedi

Swati Chaturvedi, a seasoned media and journalism aficionado with over 10 years of expertise, is not just a storyteller; she’s a weaver of wit and wisdom in the digital landscape. As a key figure in News18 Engl…Read More

Swati Chaturvedi, a seasoned media and journalism aficionado with over 10 years of expertise, is not just a storyteller; she’s a weaver of wit and wisdom in the digital landscape. As a key figure in News18 Engl… Read More

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