Difference Between Chikankari And Lucknowi: Everything Fashion Lovers Must Know

Last Updated:July 26, 2025, 18:15 IST

Although they are often used interchangeably, the phrases ‘Chikankari’ and ‘Lucknowi’ are not exactly the same.

The history of Chikankari and Lucknow is as old as the city itself. Despite their popularity, they are frequently mistaken for one another. Lucknow offers a narrative in both the tranquil areas of Hazratganj and the bustling lanes of Aminabad. The City of Nawabs is home to the unique art form of Chikankari.

What Is Chikankari?

The ancient hand embroidery technique known as chikankari was first used in Lucknow, India. The term “chikan” refers to needlework. Usually done with white thread on light, pastel fabrics, it entails delicate and exquisite threadwork.

Chikankari is a type of embroidery. It is the delicate, whisper-soft type of thread work that makes you look twice. Each motif, be it a small flower, leaf, or paisley, is created by hand using stitches that have names as lovely as they are: murri, phanda, and bakhiya, to mention a few.

History Of Chikankari

There is some confusion over the origins of Chikankari in Lucknow; some stories attribute it to the Mughals, particularly Empress Noor Jahan. She became enamoured with the art form and encouraged it, making it a favourite skill of the Mughal court. Chikankari was given the boost it needed to flourish thanks to the royal patronage, which also solidified its place in Lucknow’s sociocultural fabric.

What Does Lucknowi Mean?

“Lucknowi,” on the other hand, refers to anything from Lucknow, particularly its embroidery or clothing. In the textile industry, clothing with Chikankari embroidery is officially referred to as “Lucknowi.”

Lucknowi, on the other hand, is not an embroidery technique; it is a fashion tag. The entire style is characterised by airy shapes, delicate hues and a regal yet subtle atmosphere. The term “Lucknowi kurta” usually refers to a kurta with Chikankari embroidery in the distinctive Nawabi style.

Although Chikankari is used in some Lucknowi pieces, not all of it is referred to as Lucknowi. When you go shopping, consider Lucknowi to be the style and Chikankari to be the art form that goes along with it.

What Is The Difference Between Chikankari And Lucknowi?

In textiles, terminology and locations can become entangled, resulting in a mix of names that can occasionally be confusing. The same is true of Chikankari and Lucknowi Chikankari. Fundamentally, they all allude to the same beautiful art form. The prefix Lucknowi pays tribute to the city of Lucknow, which is the centre of its renaissance and power.

Chikankari is a live example of Lucknow’s skill and tenacity because of its delicate stitching and classic appeal. When someone mentions Lucknowi Chikankari, they are essentially highlighting the tradition and authenticity of Chikankari as it is practised in the centre of Lucknow. The craft itself is the same; it’s like valuing a treat and then connecting it to its origin for further respect.

Therefore, while all Chikankari can be considered Lucknowi, not all Lucknowi ensembles are necessarily hand-done Chikankari.

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Delhi, India, India

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